J.B. Becker Walker 2021 Wallufer Walkenberg Spätlese Trocken

The nose here is just a shade riper, with tart citrus flirting with barely ripe apricot, heading toward the peach register though highlighted by lemon curd and lemon zest, pretty citrus elements to brighten it up, even the riper twang of a lime. This has more density, for sure, more richness, though it has plenty of definition. Thinking of these wines in the context of the Rheingau is just crazy; my teeth are aching. The whole collection has acids. There is a limey quality to this, sticky but fresh, gripping, that I really like. These are very damn good. Both Spätlese Trockens clock in at 13% alcohol yet they hold it really well. Holy acids for real.

The younger-vine bottling (this one) is explosive, fruity, airy, aromatic, all-encompassing – it sorta grabs you and shakes you around a little with citrus, layers of stone fruit and a gravelly, precious minerality. When I wrote above that the vintage was “bouncy,” this was the wine I was thinking about. So much to love in this wine.